Dear Jellybean,
Okay, so, here's my problem: I'm curvy. And I mean *really* curvy. Not overweight, I don't need to lose any weight - it's just the way my body is built: bust 36, waist 24, hips 36. See what I mean? And since I'm short, it's just exagerrated. The thing is, the clothing industry doesn't seem to really cater to curvy girls any more. If I find a size that's big enough to fit my hips or chest, it's almost always made for someone who has a proportionately bigger waist; if I find something that fits around my waist, it's strained over my hips and chest. Anything that isn't too tight anywhere "smooths out" my figure, which basically means that it makes my small parts look as wide as the wide parts. Do you have any clothing tips to show off my curves, especially my waist?
Thanks!
Hourglass Dilemma
Dear Hourglass Dilemma,
You've got a killer figure! There are definitely things you can do to show it off to its best advantage.
The best possible thing you can do is, find a great seamstress or tailor! You will sometimes need to buy a larger-sized item that fits the largest part of your body, then get it tailored to fit the smaller parts too. NEVER worry about the size on the label, because they vary wildly between stores and designers anyway. If you need to buy a larger size to get the best fit, whatever, it doesn't matter... and besides, it's not like you have to share the number with anybody.
Think about this: When men go to stores to buy suits, they always have to have them altered. And women have way more curves than men, so why wouldn't you get your clothes tailored too?
Yes, this can mean a bit extra expense. But it's worth it to look good in your clothes. You can buy fewer items, and if they fit you amazingly, you won't need any more. And you can often find good tailoring for not much money, through a local fashion school or even a family-owned laundromat in your neighborhood. Ask you mom for help finding someone good with alterations - she may even be able to do some sewing for you, or have a friend who can.
Don't get discouraged in stores. Try on tons and tons of clothing - and remember if something looks great but bags a bit somewhere, it can always be taken in by a tailor. Better to go too big than too small, because tailors can't do anything about too small.
Now for the rest of the rules, when shopping to play up your gorgeous hourglass shape!
When you're shopping for dresses, tops and jackets, look for styles with nipped-in or belted waists. These will emphasize your tiny waist and play up your feminine curves. These styles are hugely fashionable right now, so you should be able to find lots of stuff to try on.
A short, fitted jacket will draw the eye to your shapely waist and make your legs look longer. Make sure your jacket is fitted as this will give the best shape. Always go for single-breasted (double will make you look broader). Belted jackets look awesome on you.
With your hourglass figure, you can rock a pencil skirt like no other body type! A pencil skirt is designed to fit snugly at the waist and hug curves all the way to the knees (or just above). Pair it with a well-fitting thin-knit V-neck sweater in a soft fabric, or a belted jacket, and va-va-voom!
An A-line skirt is another great pick for you. When your skirt flares away at the hem, it plays up your hourglass shape.
V-neck sweaters or tops are a wonderful way to create the illusion of a longer neck. Taller people usually have longer necks, and the V-shape neckline - better than a scoop neck - elongates the neck. You'll automatically look taller.
So a great outfit for you would be a thin-fabric V-neck top, under a structured/belted jacket, an A-line or pencil skirt and some cute shoes. Add a trendy accessory - say a cuff bangle, or a big brightly-colored purse, and you're looking fab.
Wrap-around tops and dresses are also great for an hourglass figure, as they'll bring emphasis to your naturally small waist.
Also consider how you use pattern in outfits. Wearing prints on your bottom half, from graphic florals to pinstripes, can help to balance an hourglass figure, especially if worn in an A-line style skirt.
Another way to fake height is to wear a monochromatic color scheme - which means, wearing the same color top and bottom. Just make sure you vary the fabrics - say a structured denim jacket with tweedy pants - so it doesn't look boring, or mom-ish.
As to fit, clothing should fit closely, but not tightly. Overly tight or clingy fabrics can look tacky on a large-busted figure, while anything baggy will just make you look bigger than you are. Opt for tailored styles and layers of light fabrics that skim your body. Avoid overly chunky knits (even if they're in style), as these will pile on the pounds.
You'll want to skip trapeze-style dresses and tops, or anything Empire-waisted, as they'll just look like a tent. Instead, what you should do is look for clothes that have great fit and structure. A great structured jacket is a must, and will totally show off your hourglass figure and little waist.
Fluted, 3/4 length and puff sleeves can add proportion to a larger bust and torso and flatter bigger arms. Just try on tops before buying, because this is not a univeral rule. It really depends on the piece, and how it suits you personally.
For pants, look for a wide-leg trouser that fits well at the widest part of your hips and goes straight down from there. Avoid skinny jeans like the plague - they'll just make you look like an ice cream cone. Also skip the low-cut hipsters. Instead, opt for a wide curved waistband that will avoid the possibility of flashing your undies when you sit down, and choose a classic straight leg cut, or a slight boot-cut jean. For a stylish look choose a dark wash with discreet pockets and keep details (embroidery, beading or sequence) to a minimum, especially on the butt.
Finally, the right bra can upgrade the look of all your outfits. Make sure you're wearing good, supportive bras - if you haven't done so, get a professional fitting at a bra salon (it's free). Especially for an hourglass shape, wearing the right bra can add a great, sleek line to your body that makes all your clothes look better on you.
