GETTING RID OF BLACKHEADS

Dear Jellybean,

I have pretty clear skin (get a few zits here and there, but nothing I can't hide with concealer) but my nose is compltely covered in blackheads. It looks gross! I've tried those nose strips that you are supposed to leave on for a little while, and then rip off, but they don't seem to be doing any good. HELP!
-Blackhead Blues

Dear Blackhead Blues,

Blackheads are caused by partially blocked pores. The "black" appearance of them is not caused by dirt, but by the effect of air on the oil in a blocked pore and the pigment from the dead skin cells. (Yuck, right?)

The best way to get rid of blackheads is to remove the cause of them — excessive oil and dead skin cells. Here are my tips for zapping blackheads, and preventing more in the future:

Cleansing and Exfoliating

Cleanse your facial skin twice a day with a good product. Choose a "water-soluble" cleanser (check labels) made with natural ingredients that are not too astringent. It can be tempting to buy a super-strong cleanser to try to zap your spots, but harsh products can actually make things worse! (By stripping the skin of oil, too-strong cleanser cause it to produce more oil, which leads to more blocked pores). Don't use bar soap, which is too over-drying (and hence, oil producing) for blackhead-prone skin.

Use a gentle exfoliator daily day to remove dead skin cells so they don't block pores. Look for one made for acne-prone skin, that contains salicylic acid. Just remember to be very gentle, as over-exfoliation can worsen the problem. Look for a product that's made for acne-prone and/or sensitive skin.

Masks

It may help to apply a clay mask to absorb excess oil, just to your nose area where the blackheads are causing problems. Or, you could do it on your whole face, if your skin seems a bit oily all over. Look for a clay mask without added ingredients (avoid masks that contain mint or added scents), and use it no more than once a week. Use in combination with steaming (see below).

Steaming

Steaming your face opens up the pores, and can help to lessen blackheads. If you steam right before applying a clay mask, you'll improve the results of the mask. Try giving your face a good steam, once a week. Right after cleansing your skin in the morning, fill a large bowl with boiling water (carefully please!) and position your face above the bowl (not too close, but close enough to feel the steam on your face) for about 5 minutes.

Gentle Care

Never squeeze or pick at blackheads (with your fingers, fingernails or a "blackhead remover") to try to extract them. Doing so can cause permanent damage to the pores and stop them working properly for good. You might get lucky and squeeze some of the blackhead out, but you could also force some of it even deeper into the skin, which may lead to infection (large spots or pimples) or permanent scarring. In general, the less you touch your skin the better. You don't want to spread the blackhead infection.

Nutrition

You can help battle blackheads by eating the right kinds of foods. Eating well can reduce oil production, increase good moisture in the skin and help the production of new skin cells. Make sure you're chowing down on lots of fresh fruits, veggies and healthy foods. Avoid fried foods, fatty foods, fast food, etc. Basically, everything you'd do to keep your body healthy, goes for your skin as well, since your skin is the largest organ in your body.

Cosmetics

If you wear makeup, make sure any foundations and concealers you use are "non-comedogenic" and "oil-free" (check labels) so they won't block pores. Try to only apply makeup to freshly-cleansed skin. It's also very important to always remove your makeup with a cleanser at the end of the day. Keep all your makeup brushes and applicators clean, by washing them in mild shampoo (such as a baby shampoo) once a month and letting them dry completely before using. (Just lay wet brushes on the counter with the brushy parts hanging over, to air-dry overnight).

Seeing a Pro

Sometimes, you can do everything right, and you still get blackheads. That's when it's helpful to visit a dermatologist, as these skin experts have access to products and methods not available elsewhere. A dermatologist may prescribe a retinoid or other medication to improve the function of skin cells and pores.